A No. 11 needle threaded with No. 90 linen thread or Kerr’s cotton No. 000 is tied on the left warp thread close to the bar and brought out to the right, under the other threads. Here three amber beads are strung, brought under the warp threads, and pushed up between them. The needle is then run through the beads from right to left, taking care to have it go above the warp threads. The needle is again brought out to the right below the work, one amber, one black and an amber bead are threaded on, pushed up between the warp threads, and the needle is passed through them from right to left, as before.
The same process is continued through the length of the chain, working out the pattern shown in Fig. 3. In joining a new needleful of thread the weaver’s knot is used. It is made as follows. The joining, of course, is done at an edge of the chain. Hold the old end in a vertical position, laying the new thread back of it, its short end turning toward the left, and projecting an inch or more beyond the vertical thread.
Bring the long end around in front of the vertical thread, up back of its own short end on the left, and across in front of the vertical thread. All these threads are held in position by the fingers and thumb of the left hand while the right hand brings the thread around. The vertical or old end is now turned down through the loop in front of it and there held by the thumb while with the fingers of either hand the long and short ends of the new thread are pulled up tight. This, if properly done, will make a knot that will not slip.
To further insure its holding, touch it lightly with paste or glue. There are several ways of finishing chains. The warp ends may be sewed securely to either end of a bit of chamois; this is the method usually chosen by the Indians, or both may be fastened to one of the small metal clasps used to hold a fan.
Still another way is to bring the warp threads at either end of the chain together, and, fastening them on
the loom in one row, weave a solid square which will be one bead more than twice the width of the chain, as one bead must go between the two outer warp threads thus brought together. Beads of the size and colour of the background of the chain are strung on the ends of the warp threads for an inch or an inch and one-half, making a fringe. The ends of the warp threads are then run back through the fringe, starting at the next bead but one from the last, and finishing off by sewing to the edge of the woven square. The design shown in Fig. 4 is for a three-bead chain in 4-0 beads. It is particularly attractive if woven in three shades of a colour or two shades and white crystal beads. Shades of violet, pink or green make beautiful chains.
Continued in Part 4
Reference Used: White, Mary. How to Do Beadwork Complete with 100 Illustrations . Kindle Edition. Copyright 1904 by Doubleday, Page and Company Published May 1904 (in public domain due to expiration of copyright)
republished by: Connie Limon, Bead Jewelry Artisan
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